Route 40

I had decided to take the bus fom El Calafate to Perito Moreno missing much of the infamous Route 40. I was loosing time and did not want to spend my whole holiday on the route through hell.

I was to later meet Bert, who was a crack cyclist from Holland. It took him 2 and a half weeks! It is a route without water where even the local wildlife can´t hack it.

Glacier El Perito Moreno

I´ve just returned from a trip to see the Glacier El Perito Moreno.
I started out on Saturday morning from Pto Natales, I took the bus overland to El Calafate in Argentina. I saw a couple of cyclists out of the window, and felt a bit guilty. But after seeing the immense distance & one of the cyclists looked like he was dead in a ditch [I know the feeling !] I thought I´d probably made the right decision.
On arriving in El Calafate, a town on the edge of the pampas and steppes / desert, I had to rebuild my bike and trailer, re-pack. I was only an hour. I enquired about a bus north to the town Perito Moreno, which is the end of a long 5/6 day desert slog, or would be if I went by bike. One office told me I had to go via Rio Gallegos, which if you check out on a map, is back South about 350+km! I left and found shelter, a nice spot cold Los Nietos. The woman who runs the place was very amable, and when she knew I could converse a little in Spanish and I said I was cycling into & out of the local national park, she knocked the price down from 25 pesos to 20. Not bad for about 4 quid. (can´t find the english pound symbol on this keyboard, someone must tell me the ASCII so I can punch it in manually)
I cooked up a large pasta dish again. I haven´t eaten out yet, I´ve bought food that either doesn´t need cooking or I´ve cooked in the hospedajes. I talked to an Argentinian guy who was working down here. He was off to Rio Turbio to seek more work. I also met a couple of Swedish girls. One was here long time, travelling, here friend was just over for a short break. I left them talking to the Argentinian. I need my sleep now I´m getting older.
I set off just before 8 am, expecting a nice gentle ride in. It was a nice ride too, I saw condor, upland geese, lots of other birds, even ones which are like eagles, but don´t know quite what. I had lunch of sugary croissants. I would have loved a milky coffee to wash them down, but all I had was some dodgy tasting mineral water. I pressed on as I thought it would be nice to get there by 3 and then see the glacier. I reached the park entrance, about 35km short of the target. They told me I had to pay 40 pesos to enter, and no I couldn´t camp. I decided it wouldn´t help if I complained, but the guy went in and brought the tough looking park warden out. I had agreed I wouldn´t camp!
I now had to press on as fast as I could. I downed some water, empanadas (pasty like things) and sped on as fast as my poor legs would go. I eventually reached the glacier. I must say it is very beautifull, well worth a visit. As I was heading back I met the two swedes. I explained I couldn´t camp and had to head out. I had quite a few admiring the bike, where have you come from, where are you going.....
I started to get a bad headache, the sun was out full and the air temperature was upto the +30s. I decided I must drink a bit more and I found a mountain stream where I could soak my head. The pain went.
About 10km before reaching the end of the section to leave the park, two other cyclists caught me up. The had no luggage, just the bike and water. Both were German and they expressed interest in where I was from, where had I been, how was the trailer, which I believe is called either a camioncita or cochita. no matter, they were heading back to El Calafate. I could have done the full +150km, but had planned to camp. I could have made it back, but I was going to camp. The area was so nice. I found a spot near a river. I ate my torta de Kiwi and the last of the empanadas. I moved on as it seemed to open and close to the road. I turned off onto a side road and around a hillock I pitched the tent. The sky was blue horizon to horizon. I had to wait until the sun went down before I could enter my tent. I slept straight away. I awoke a few times in the night to admire the stars, all for about 5 seconds, before I slumped back down. It was cold again!
I decided I wouldn´t get up early, I had reserved a bed and only had 40 - 45km left to do. So I waited for the sun to warm things up, then I arose. I ate the remains of my pasta dish from the day earlier. It seemed ok.

I passed more eagles. I tried to photograph them but you can only get so close before they move on. I rode into town at around 11:30, after a gentle 45km ride. I´ll now need to work out how to get north, possibly la cuidad de Perito Moreno.

Torres Del Paine

Just got back into Puerto Natales after a 210km cycle up into Torres Del Paine.

I started out early on Wednesday morning, 7am. I was still unsure if I should go as now my whole face has swelled up from the sun and wind. My bottom lip was worst. Just imagine those knarled faces after they come back from topping everest. Well I looked like that.

Despite careful planning and seeking advice at the tourist centre I ended up going the wrong way, but after a minor detour I only lost about 5km. By 10 I had reached Cueva del Milodon. I was feeling bushed, as the road 16km out of Pto Natales turns into Ripio. Ripio is a bit like a gravel road. The way was long and windy. Still I´d stocked up on provisions. My hearty meal of pasta, chorizo and queso (cheese) the night before was doing me good. I´d put some in a spare container and I had brought this with me. I also had three bread baps, three avocaods, two tins of tune, a large tin of pineapple, 350gm of cheese, more chocolate and some dried sugary fruit stuff that I could add to water and make a refreshing fruit, sweet, drink.

La cueva del Milodon was examined




& I was just about to head out when I met a fellow cyclist. Italian. He liked the camioncita, trailer, and wished he´d got one. His was Alu and had been wrecked. His bike also. He was now renting. We discoursed a while before I had to head out. I was feeling bad once more. I was thinking of turning around as the road descended into a long valley. No the road surface is such that you have to go slow downhill for fear of loosing it. You have to go slow uphill because it´s hard work. The fastest is on the flats. Well there were few flat sections! I ate some of my pasta from the evening before. I didn´t feel hungry and had to force it down. After an hour or so I started feeling better. The mountains now surrounded me on all sides with the odd vast lake. I saw more nandus, condors, and even a couple of Caballeros, real Gauchos on horse back tending to the cattle.

I soon realised the distances I´d been given were wrong. I estimated I would just get there before I´d peg out. The road twisted and snaked up hill then downhill. I was juist giving up hope of ever getting to the end when I could see the large delta that I had to cross. The time was now 5:30 pm. I ate more pasta and headed out across the delta. The road was very bumpy, caused by the oscillations of the vehicles which travel along the road. They´re about 18" apart and can be as much as 20cm high. This means slowly navigating them at about 6kmph.

I reached the park entrance at 6:15. I talked to the park guardas. The people tend to open up and talk more when you can speak the lingo. The told me the main track to the campsite would be closed at 7 pm. I had a good 10km to make and wouldn´t do this by then. They offered me to stay by the central administration office. So that´s just where I camped.

I´had the last of my pasta and opened my box of wine. Ohh, maybe that´s why my trailer was so heavy! If I was going to torture myself going into the park, I was going to do it with some comforts. I downed a few mug fulls before dropping off.

I awoke to the sound of rain. That meant two things. 1) I´d get wet. 2) It would be cloudy and spoil the views. I decided I would be staying another night under canvas before heading back into Pto Natales. So I slept in until 8. I packed and set of once more. I had about 18km to do to reach Salta Grande. I´d been there before in ´98, but not this way. I got there by 10 and decided to eat. I downed a litre of fruit juice, bread, avocados and cheese. I photographed the falls before heading back to my bike.

A guy, who sounded like he was from the states, started talking to me. He was a guide and had driven people in from town. He suggested that if I needed help just to wave and he would pick me up if his van was empty. I thanked him for his kind thoughts and decided to head back to civilisation. The sun was coming out now. Crossing the river from Lago Pehoe, an old looking wooden affair I met a guy walking. He was staying in one of those middle of no where hotels. Sounded expensive! He was German and admired my trailer. I sadly had to inform him that it wasn´t of German origin, but had come from the states. He took a photo of it. I showed him my collection of cameras and GPS gadgets. He seemed very happy and impressed, although he only spoke a little spanish and no English. Likewise I couldn´t speak German.

I set off once more and parked up by the administration centre and had a late lunch. My food was going down quickly but I needed the energy if I was going to make it back over the hills. I pressed on leaving the grand peaks of Torres del Paine behind. I passed Guanacos, saw more condor and lots of pretty flowers, birds. You´d have missed these in a tour bus.

I parked up at around 7:30 and ate my remaining food, bar the pineapple, I would have those for breakfast. I slept.
Again I awoke to rain. I guess it rains at night here. I headed out and passed La Cueva del Milodon once more. I fuelled up with chocolate, more sugary energy drink and donned a fleece. It was getting windy again and cold. The air temperature had fallen since yesterday, but that didn´t matter, I was only 30km now from town.

Just as I came in to Pto Natales I saw a group of people on bikes. Several had the Bob Yak and one had the Bob Ibex, like what I had. They had had the same difficulties getting up from Punta Arenas, several nights camping and spending several hours in ditches recovering energy. I knew the feeling only too well. I guess that because there were about 6 of them, they could share carrying cooking equipment, tools, and tents. This is the only downside of dooing it solo.

I made my way back to Maria Jose´s hospedaje. I´ve sent my sleeping bag liner and my clothes off for a wash, well once I caught them! I type this note with great difficulty, as my right hand is virtually numb, from the vibration and persistant breaking down hills. My left hand´s fine!

Three days:
Day1: 95.3km 1155m altitude climed
Day2: 78.1km 1145m altitude climed
Day3: 46.5km 485m altitude climed.

I think I´m off for a beer to celebrate.

Puerto Natales

Today I arrived in Puerto Natales, about 250km from Punta Arenas.

When I arrived at the airport on Friday I didn´t think I would be going. The airline wanted to charge 36 pound per kilo for my bike ! I had to ring my agent, who nearly lost it before ringing Iberia head office. They then rang the airport & told them it was 75 euro regardless of destination. Of course this all happened with only a few hours before taking the plane. I lamost had to leave my bike. Still after 45 minutes it was all cleared up.

The journey to Punta Arenas could have been worse, to be honest the last leg from Santiago a Punta Arenas was the best [Lan Chile!]

I was glad to see my bike in Santiago & a weigh in came in at 28+ kilos. Anyway on arriving in Punta Arenas I had to wait for my bike, the last thing though. Still it only took me a couple of hours to rebuild it. I had a few spectators, but by the time I finished, 8 o´clock, there was only the security guard ready to throw me out.

I hadn´t been out of the airport for more than a few kilometres when an owl flew past me and then alongside. I can´t express how beautifull it was to see. After a few minutes it sped on, leaving me to crawl up the hills.

On reaching PA I quickly found a hotel, anywhere at 9, 9:30 in the evening is good. I showered then slept. I awoke at 6 am, took a stroll around town, took a few pictures, then back for breakfast of ham and cheese. I left at 9 ish picking up some marathons [snickers] and a couple of bottles of water and a few litres of petrol. I headed out of town into the wind.

I had been going 20, 30, 40 kilometres. I lost count of how many times I was blown off the road. it was bad!!! I was almost for turning around. I´d eaten almost all my provisions when I saw a sign for a petrol station. at 50km I stopped. There was a small cafeteria, that looked like it only saw business every other day. I had lunch of chicken and chips. I almost bought all their chocolate. I headed out once more.

I had practically given in by 80km, there was no way I good go any further. It was 5:30. I parked up at the side of the road, pitched the tent, had a row of chocolate then went to sleep. I woke several times during the night, hearing the odd noise. I was also cold. I snugled into my sleeping back, liner and outer. After shivering a bit I got warmer. Still it was a good sleep and I awoke at 6am to hear silence. The wind had gone!

I got up and after packing the bike I was quickly on my way. I was approaching Morro Chico when the wind started to pickup again. I found a restaurant at 60km mark. Odd really because there is absolutely nothing, I mean NOTHING, on the road and then out of nowhere there´s a restaurant. I had lunch, I needed it.

After a couple of hours I needed to press on. The wind had reached +40kmph again, I was only making headway of 5, 6, 7 kmph. I would never get there at this rate. I ate more chocolate. I past Hotel Rubens) again, just out of nowhere, I decided to press on a the man in the earlier restaurant said it was uphill for a while then down down down. I felt ok, the wind was calmer so on I went. At 120km I had to stop, it was 7:30. I piched the tent and again went to sleep. I awoke at 5 but decided the last 46km to Puerto Natales could wait a wee while.

7am I eventually got up. I could feel blisters on my nose. A quick check in my bike mirror & yep I was burnt. Still that was the least of my worries. I set out and my legs were tired. Now I haven´t said so far what I was thinking. I waqs seriously contemplating giving up. As I approached Puerto Natales I decided that I would bus the borring bits, and bits where there is literraly no habitation for hundreds of kilometres. If I cooked, road on dirt / gravel roads I would make at best 60km. That´s without the wind and finding water.

So as I sit here, a day later than planned, I´ve decided this should be more a holiday than a grouling torture trial. I´m going to get the bus to Calafate, Argentina, cycle the 150km to the glacier and back, then bus again to Perrito Moreno, before I hop back across into Chile. Cycling 6 days without water with the prospect of winds, is one that I won´t take this time around. At least I may make up some time and perhaps better enjoy the scenery that´s to be had in the less arrid areas. Sorry to disappoint, but it´s better I finish the journey than not at all.

Ok, I´m off for lunch.

Last evening at home

My last evening at home has arrived. It seemed so far away when I started counting the weeks down, 16 , 15 .... Thankfully the planning has helped, and probably for the first time ever I've got all my bags packed before the final hours.
I decided I couldn't do without my sleeping bag liner, a nice cotten afair. I remember the last time I used my lightweight sleeping bag, which is a pretty compact mountain range bag, has a synthetic inner. It sticks and is uncomfortable against the skin. So the cotton bag liner has had to be added. I also received a small compact stainless steel trowel, with folding handle. Someone must think I'll be gardening whilst in the wilds. Still I may find a use, so that's in too. I also considered my TENS machine, great for relaxing stiff muscles. Then there was the multitool. I think you will be getting the picture by now.
I applied the last strap down on the trailer come bag. The scales came out & somehow I'd added over 2kg. I was now 1.8 kg over weight. At £36 a kilo and talk of a credit crunch, the cash would be better off in my pocket than someone elses. So I ended up stripping the bag down, jetisoned a few bits and now I'm only 800g over. I can't loose my liner, I'll miss it too much, besides it was only a quid at a car boot so I'll jetison that to some good cause before I return. As for the bulbs I'll plant along the route, I've also kept the trowel.
So just had my last supper. Susy kindly took me out to La Tasca. I'd to drive so I couldn't get wasted on Sangria. Mind you I don't think I missed anything, it tasted like cheap red wine and lemonade. My home made wine's nicer, but I'll also have to miss that for a good month. Just hope that the cheap plonk they make in Chile and Argentina is ok. I'm sure it will be.

So as all's packed, I've added my last entry before I head out. Updates are likely to be sporadic, mainly dependant on me finding habitation in the wild pampas and steppes.

Hasta Luego

All things are practically packed, bike stripped down and in its flightcase. The trailer's also stripped down and almost packed, just holding off for the last odds n sods. Looks like I've managed to squeeze the whole lot into the 23kg allowance + bike + hand luggage. Well, ok the hand luggage weighs quite a bit, but I've got everything in there, including the kitche sink. Only 3 and a half days left.

Only 7 days left to go before I board my plane southward. Had a minor isue with my luggage, only being able to take 23kg + bike. So most items are now out. Bike's still left to pack, but most things are nearly done now, with the route notes written out.

Also fixed the IR camera which had a blemish on the CCD glass filter.